The Reuben Sandwich

A summary of my adventures eating Reubens from around the area. I'm not a sandwich guy since I grew up in another country. Reubens and Italians are just about the only sandwiches that I like. Feel free to recommend other places with excellent Reubens. A Reuben should be made with Corned Beef Brisket, Swiss cheese, Sauerkraut, and Russian dressing between grilled or toasted slices of rye bread. The corned beef brisket should be thickly sliced. Using slaw, it's called a Rachel.

The Irish Cottage in Methuen. Online listed as Corned Beef Reuben, but on the menu called "Sligo Corned Beef Reuben" (13.00). "Slow Cooked, Hand Cut Corned Beef, Swiss Cheese, Sauerkraut and 1,000 Island Dressing on Thick Cut Rye". The original calls for Russian dressing that is less sweet. For my side, I picked Beer Battered Onion Rings, which was a far cry from the soggy rings I got on a previous visit. I also asked for extra dressing on the side, which was no problem. You never get enough dressing with your Reuben. The Sauerkraut was essentially missing, but I got extra kraut on the side. The corned beef was thickly cut, and I guess that's what hand cut really means. The corned beef was tender and tasty, and the Sauerkraut was good. The bread was nicely toasted. Biggest pickle ever! With extra dressing and Sauerkraut, this is my favorite Reuben.

Millers Tavern in Methuen. Tavern Reuben ($14.49). This wasn't a Reuben but a Rachel because they used slaw instead of Sauerkraut. My fault didn't pay attention to the description. The corned beef was excellent, and I got extra dressing on the side. The bread was toasted nicely, and the cheese was melted. The fries were outstanding, coated, and seasoned. They get a mention since they use real corned beef brisket, not round.

Deli King in Tewksbury. Deli King delivered a classic Reuben ($9.25) executed perfectly. I got it made with light rye since I'm not a fan of dark rye and, of course, extra dressing. Nobody gives me enough dressing. The Reuben was griddled nicely with the cheese melted. Plenty of corned beef brisket that was delicious, but why do they slice it so thinly? The corned beef was evenly distributed on the bread and wasn't just a lump in the middle. There was plenty of crisp Sauerkraut. This is an excellent rendition of a classic sandwich.

Olde Magoun's Saloon in Somerville is really in Magoun Square. Magoun's Reuben (16). "House cured corned beef brisket, bacon infused thousand island dressing, Swiss cheese on grilled marble rye & choice of ale braised sauerkraut or homemade coleslaw". Sauerkraut of course; otherwise, it's a Rachel. I picked the excellent onion rings that come with a horseradish dip for my side. Make sure to ask for the dip on a plate. The last time it arrived in a small container. Didn't work at all. The onion rings were excellent, really crunchy, but also very light. And they were salted! The Reuben has thickly sliced corned beef made of brisket, which was tender and delicious. There was also ample sauerkraut that was tasty and crisp. This was an excellent Reuben made the proper way. According to the server, everything is made in-house. The service was delightful. This is really a winner! Contender for first place!

Lendy's Deli in Saugus. Reuben ($12.25 $13.45). "Corned Beer or Pastrami piled as high as the New York sky and melted Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing and served with choice of French fries, potato salad, macaroni salad, or coleslaw." The corned beef wasn't really "piled high", but the sauerkraut underneath was. Thinly sliced corned beef brisket, and it was brisket. Light rye and an enormous pickle. The potato salad is excellent, but I don't remember having so many olives.

OUR PLACE in Peabody. REUBEN (14). "Fresh Corned Beef, Sauerkraut, Swiss Cheese and Thousand Island Dressing on Marble Rye." Extra dressing, please. Took another trip to get the dressing. The Reuben had been toasted nicely, and there was plenty of Sauerkraut. Couldn't say the same for the corned beef. The corned beef was cut so thinly that I have no idea if it was round or brisket. The texture indicates that this was, in fact, round and not brisket. The dressing was excellent. The bread here is really fantastic, light and very fresh. The homefries were terrible, overcooked, and soggy. Even if the skin was thin, it was still slimy.

Hale Street Tavern in Beverly Farms. CLASSIC REUBEN (17). "Corned beef, sauerkraut, thousand island, swiss cheese, rye." With their hand-cut fries of course. The rye turned out to be marbled rye, and that's fine with me. See any sauerkraut or dressing? Me neither, but my waitress quickly brought me some. To top it off, they charged me extra for the dressing! The corned beef brisket was the real deal and cut thicker than you usually get. If it is sliced very thinly, it is usually round and not brisket except at the various Brothers, who actually use brisket. The rye had been lightly crisped up, not enough to melt the cheese or heat up the brisket that was stone cold.

Reuben ($10.99) from Shawsheen Luncheonette in Andover. The choices of a side were FF, Housemade Chips or Coleslaw. The chips were excellent, but the fries are the coated version that I really like next time. I asked for extra sauerkraut and extra dressing. I wonder what it would look like without the extra? The bread was fresh marbled rye, and I'm happy with that. The corned beef was announced as hand-cut, and it was the real deal made from brisket and thickly cut. Not really thickly cut but not as thinly as when they are using round. The brisket was excellent, and I have to return for the hash.

Don't try to figure out what other people want to hear from you; figure out what you have to say.

-- Barbara Kingsolver

Mulan Waltham

MuLan in Waltham closed and then re-opened for takeout only, but in August started doing indoor dining again. This is an old favorite of mine, and for a while, I had lunch here just about every other Friday. Excellent food with a very extensive lunch menu with about 39 items to choose from.

There is also some ambiguity about the name. The outside sign says MuLan, and the menu says Mu Lan or Mulan. The Website also says Mu Lan and Mulan.

I have seen them going from closed on Mondays to open 7 days a week. They expanded to take over space next door. Their excellent Hot & Sour soup stopped being included at lunch. Currently, the pickled cabbage and the peanuts are also absent at lunch. I also miss the lunch combo plates that are no more.

I felt really safe dining in here at lunchtime during the peak of the Covid, since usually just a few tables are occupied. Their takeout business is booming.

I'm really missing their Lunch Combos that are no more.

The mayor removed all parking meters in Waltham. Where am I more likely to eat lunch? Waltham, where all the meters are gone, or Arlington, who installed parking meters?

The Fish Fillet with Spicy Bean Sauce (9.95) was the first dish I ordered after the MuLan re-opened for indoor dining. I'm unsure where the name comes from since there is not one bean present? It's a good amount of fish, and you can stuff yourself silly and still have enough leftovers for dinner. The sauce has a hint of sweetness, and it's pleasantly spicy. The fish is also always perfectly cooked. I really miss their H&S soup that used to be included at lunch. It was an excellent version. No more peanuts or pickled cabbage either, but I hope that this is just temporary.

Pork Chop Noodle soup (10.95). You get a giant bowl of soup loaded with noodles, veggies, and a tea egg. I had this dish a few years ago, and the broth was tasteless, the noodles overcooked, so I have stayed away. The soup today was much better, but not their best. You get a plate with pork chops on the side, and the chops are delicious. These are "Chinese" pork chops meaning they are neck chops, and that's good since you get more flavor and fat. Dining in at lunch was very quiet, but the takeout was flying out the door.

L34 Chicken in Chili Sauce (9.95) is another longtime favorite. See any chili sauce? Me neither, but I see plenty of crispy and juicy dark meat chicken. I also see dry chili peppers, Sichuan peppercorns, and something I thought was jalapenos, but they didn't taste like jalapenos, nor are they the long green peppers. The mystery pepper is slightly hot and has a lovely fruity flavor. I finally got a waiter today that speaks good English and asked about the peppers, and he said jalapenos. I guess this is what happens when they get sauteed under high heat. This is an excellent dish that also has a fair amount of heat. Look at the amount of food you get at lunch!

This post prematurely ended in early June when I got there for lunch, got seated, got water, and started snacking on the pickled cabbage that's back on the tables. A couple that arrived a few minutes before I did, got their food order taken, then got their food. I was utterly ignored despite plenty of waitstaff around doing stuff, so I left. They seemed more interested in the takeout business than waiting on tables.

I returned almost a year later since I really missed their food. This time I actually got served. Today's dish was the L17 Diced Chicken with Hot Sauce (9.95). This is another favorite of mine. See any hot sauce? Me neither, but plenty of tasty jalapenos that aren't very spicy. Plenty of dark meat chicken. The pickled cabbage is back, but not the peanuts. It was an excellent chopstick exercise to chase the peanuts around.

Address 835 Main St, Waltham, MA 02451 Phone number (781) 642-8888

The invention of the ship was also the invention of the shipwreck.
-- Paul Virilio

Shawsheen Luncheonette Andover

Shawsheen Luncheonette in Andover reopened last at year's end under new ownership. I have never been but saw a post on FB promoting their Corned Beef Hash that uses brisket. Now I can't find a trace of them on any social media.

There is free on-street parking.

It's a small place that was really busy at lunchtime. Lots of counter seating. The lunch offerings were just recently added. It's LOUD. Really really loud. They had a table for one!

I completely forgot that I was supposed to try the Corned Beef Hash and ended up with a Reuben ($10.99) instead. The choice of side was FF, Housemade Chips or Coleslaw. The chips were excellent, but the fries are the coated version that I really like, next time. I asked for extra sauerkraut and extra dressing. I wonder what it would look like without the extra? The bread was fresh marbled rye, and I'm happy with that. The corned beef was announced as hand-cut, and it was the real deal made from brisket and thickly cut. Not really thickly cut but not as thinly as when they are using round. The brisket was excellent, and I have to go back for the hash. They also have a hash with spicy pork, so it might be two visits in the future. 02/22/22

Hash & Eggs ($9.50). "Homemade Corned Beef Hash". The eggs lacked browning but were cooked over easy as ordered. The home fries had the slimy skins left on. Hash Browns the next time. No Scali bread, but the sourdough was perfectly acceptable. The hash was fantastic! A thick slab lightly crisped up and it was 95% corned beef. Less busy at lunch today, so the sound level wasn't that bad. 03/11/22

Hash & Eggs ($10.25). "Spicy Pork Hash". With the hash brown potatoes this time. They were excellent. Occasionally hash brown comes out with partly cooked bits, but this was perfect. The spicy pork hash was a huge hit with me. Not very spicy but the poblanos were tasty and the pork (shoulder) was tender and plentiful. The eggs were, of course, cooked as ordered. 04/29/22

Address: 3 Lowell St, Andover, MA 01810 Phone: (978) 475-9750

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Pho 88 Lowell

Pho 88 in Lowell/Chelmsford is an institution for Pho and Vietnamese food. I have been going here for a really long time and they never disappoint. Besides that, I'm on the hunt for a really good Banh Xeo.

They are located just after the infernal rotary in Chelmsford. Getting here is fine, but leaving is a nightmare since nobody respects the lane markings. There is parking, but the little plaza is busy, and the parking spaces are tight. A sign on the hostess stand said their prices had increased by 5%. They also have very handsome new (to me) menus.

I already had plans when I got here, but when I saw this in the specials section, I had to try it. Bun Bo Hue (Hue City Soup) ($10.95). "Hue Special Soup - A spicy large vermicelli soup, with softened tendon, sliced shank, ground pork cake, pork leg and pork blood." They don't do the pork blood anymore. It wasn't vermicelli noodles either, and the tendon was missing, but I got sliced brisket instead. There were very delicious pork cakes in the soup. It was spicy but really just pleasingly spicy. This was one savory soup chockful of flavor. 10/01/21

Goi Cuon Nem Nuong ($6.95). "Fresh Spring Roll. Grilled Vietnamese ham cake, pickle, carrots, cucumber, mint and crunchy roll wrapped in rice paper. Served with homemade sauce." The ham cake was a very skinny slice, and I'm not convinced that the pickle made it. The crunchy roll was super crunchy. Not sure what the homemade sauce was, but it wasn't really memorable. I think I'll stick with the normal Goi Cuon since the peanut sauce was excellent. 10/15/21

Banh Xeo ($10.95). "Vietnamese Pizza. A combination of Shrimp, Pork, Mushrooms, Bean Sprouts and Rice Powder Pancake." This was a proper Banh Xeo that was crispy on the outside but still pliant. All you see is beansprouts if you open it up to check on the fillings. The fillings are loaded into the batter before it is fried. A nice little salad at the top right. Underneath the mint, there was a big bunch of watercress. I really like watercress, the mint not so much. 10/15/21

I normally order the famous #14 XE LUA ($13.95). "Extra large Beef Noodle Soup. Our largest bowl of our most popular Beef (Bo) Noodle Soup combining rare Beef, well-done Brisket, Beef Flank, Tendon and Tripe." This time I decided to get the #15 ($11.95) that is the same, but in a smaller bowl. As you can see, I got everything. The broth was rich and delicious, with plenty of meat and I mean plenty! Even the smaller bowl was loaded with meat. The tripe was crunchy as it should be since it's only there to add texture. A bit short on the tendon, but no big deal. Leftovers for dinner, that's how big the smaller bow is. 02/23/22

Canh Chua Ca Bong Lau, Tom Hoac Ga (Sm:$12.95 / Lg:$14.95). "Hot, Sweet and Sour Soup. A choice of sliced Fish, Shrimp or Chicken Breast with Bean Sprouts, chunks of Pineapple, fresh Tomatoes and Basil in an aromatic spicy broth with a slice of small Green Chile Pepper on top. Two sized bowls are served with steamed rice." It's now $16.95 for a large. The chili pepper didn't make it. I had to ask what "Tom Hoac Ga" meant? Turns out it should be "Tom, Hoac, Ga" fish, shrimp or chicken. The fish turned out to be catfish, which was perfectly cooked. It was also a good amount of fish. I really enjoyed the broth. However, it lacked spiciness. Adding chili oil and pickled jalapenos from the condiment stand really improved things. 12/26/21

S8. Mi Vit Tiem ($13.95). "Fried duck leg and pink oyster mushrooms and Chinese brocolli with egg noodles soup in clear broth". The wrong kind of mushrooms, this is shitake. The duck leg was previously fried, but after spending time in the soup, the skin was flabby and not very pleasant. The meat was tasty and tender. I don't like broccoli, but this I do like. The broth was excellent and the noodles weren't overcooked. 05/07/22

Address: 1270 Westford St, Lowell, MA 01851 Phone: (978) 452-7300

It is a happy talent to know how to play.

-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Sichuan Palace Chelmsford Part Trois

After I finished the last write-up of Sichuan Palace in Chelmsford, I still had a long list of dishes to try, so here is the follow-up. This is a never-ending quest since they add new dishes every month. They have the best online menu I have seen anywhere.

Nothing new here; move on.

FISH FILET WITH GREEN PEPPERCORN (17.95 after 10% off). "Braised with tofu, cucumber and wood ear mushroom in spicy chili sauce and green peppercorn". Happily, there was no tofu present. Of course it wasn't green peppercorns, but Sichuan fresh peppercorns. This arrived in a cauldron with the most aromatic broth ever. My waitress, who I have known for a long time, asked if I wanted it MaLa? Of course! And it was. My lips are still tingling when I'm writing this. The fish was perfectly cooked, and there was a lot of it. I got a soup cup, ladled the broth and fish into it, and happily consumed it with some white rice. A smidgen of rice into the soup spoon and then submerged it in the soup and scoped up some fish simultaneously. Even the chili pods had softened enough to be edible. What an excellent dish! How big was it? I got three large meals out of it. 02/06/22

Pork Belly with Chili and Garlic sauce ($9.45 with 10% off). "Served in chili oil and soy sauce with fresh garlic and scallion". The scallions had been replaced with julienned cucumbers. Excellent sauce and they didn't hold back on the garlic. The pork was tender and tasty, but I would have liked it to be sliced thicker so it had some texture. 02/27/22

Sichuan Beef Noodle Soup ($10.50). "Noodle soup with braised beef, greens, chili oil sauce and peppercorn oil". The broth was even redder than what's shown here. I try this in every Sichuan restaurant I go to. 95% of the time, I get beef that has all the icky bits left on. Here it was quality beef. The noodles were perfectly cooked, and the broth was SPICY and really well seasoned. The noodles have a nice texture to them. Best beef noodle soup in a long time. Dumpling Daughter uses shank, and that was probably the last time I had a perfect one. This was so delicious that I finished the whole thing, and it was a lot of noodles. I took the leftover broth home. Cook up some pasta, mix in the broth, and I have another delicious meal. I now carry a napkin holder that goes around my neck because I got tired of chili oil stains all over my front 😋. 03/06/22

Lamb in Chili Oil Sauce (16.16 with 10% off). "Boiled with napa, green bean sprout, long leek in spicy chili oil and peppercorn". The redness of this dish didn't come out well, but it was RED from the chili oil! It shows somewhat at the top of the picture. The lamb was tended, and it was 95% lamb with some greenery hiding underneath. Again it was served in a cauldron. 03/20/22

Crispy La-Zi Chicken (15.95). "Deep-fried chicken with hot dry peppers". 15% discount this weekend to celebrate one year anniversary. This is a classic and can be found in every self-respecting Sichuan eatery. Dark meat? Check. Chili's broken open? Check. MaLa? Check. Are the peppers crispy, or do they resemble plastic? Crispy, of course. Everything was on point, maybe an excess of chiles, but I can't really complain about that, can I? Yanni bought me a Mai Tai today, and that was much appreciated. 04/03/22

MINCED PORK WITH PICKLED STRING BEAN (14.36 with 10% off). "Stir-fried with pickled string bean and red pepper". There were no red peppers present, but extra spicy got me fresh chili peppers. Looking at the pictures on the website, I think the spicy peppers are the red peppers. What an exciting dish this turned out to be! The beans were pickled and crunchy. The whole thing was really delicious with an interesting texture. 04/17/22

Address: 7 Summer St #17-18, Chelmsford, MA 01824 Phone number: (978) 256-8545

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